This might be my last ever visit to the Shing Mun Redoubt due to relocation out of Hong Kong. Each time I've stepped into the redoubt I feel a connection with the past and as I've walked the tunnels I always find myself assembling the events of the past and reinterpreting the printed word.
Haymarket Tunnel is one that I have always missed when wandering inside, hence the focus of this trip was to follow Haymarket and then to re-walk the other parts of the network, again lost in thought and re-examining the past. Previously when exploring Hong Kong's World War 2 past I have referenced Tony Banham's excellent book, 'Not the Slightest Chance, The Defence of Hong Kong, 1941' (2010). This gives a day by day, almost hour by hour, account of the battle and was the book that really fired my interest. This now tatty book was an ever constant companion on my hikes or ferry rides around Hong Kong. Philip Cracknell's, 'Battle for Hong Kong December 1941' which I referenced earlier has now taken over as my main read and was published in 2019 and also references the incredible work done by Lawrence et al which I think is the definitive account of the fall of the Shing Mun Redoubt. My understanding of this is shown diagrammatically in the last image.
Knowing that this may be my last visit, I have a good deal more photos, some from the other side of the dam looking toward the redoubt. This shows the redoubt under heavy vegetation but back in 1941 the hill sides were relatively bare. Archive footage shows this, and I've included some fascinating views of the redoubt taken from images taken from movies dating from the 1930s or even 1940s of the reservoir. This clear propaganda footage shows troops running out of the tunnels and taking up firing positions in the Shaftesbury Avenue and Regent Street trench. If there really were this many soldiers in the redoubt then the story of the fall of the Shing Mun Redoubt would be very different. Here's the video.
Prewar Propaganda at the Shing Mun Redoubt
Its hard to believe that it's been 10 years since I first excitedly explored the Shing Mun Redoubt. Further reading since then has raised questions that can be best answered by walking the actual tunnels and terrain - in other words by getting boots on the ground. This time I was accompanied by a smaller pair of boots so despite having questions about the battle my main focus was providing an adventurous trip through the tunnels and a bit of history.
The adventure started with a bus from Tsuen Wan to the Pineapple Dam on Shing Mun Road. A 15 minute walk from here takes you to the barbecue pits and public toiles at the start/end of Stage 6 of the Maclehose Trail.
One ice cream later we took to the trail and soon came to the first signs of the redoubt, this being around the Piccadilly tunnel. Not much further on is one of the major sights for anyone walking the trail and this is the outdoor trench at the intersection between Piccadilly, Shaftsbury Avenue and Regent Street. I always wondered why the trench was so shallow and difficult to get into the tunnels but archive footage from the 1930s shows that the trenches used to be deeper, but 83 years of surface erosion have washed a significant amount of mud into the trench.
We hopped into the trench and took the route up to Shaftesbury Avenue past the sign oft photographed sign "To O.P. & Strand Palace Hotel", and continued to PB 400. We came back the same way and left Shaftesbury Avenue at the short crossing to Charring Cross. We then headed up the steps to the OP (AOP) which is good for story telling due to the battle damage, toilet area, and long mysterious steps down to the Strand Palace Hotel (kitchen). Near here is an impressive looking piece of trench, which seems to be at it's original depth, and good for stimulating young imaginations.
I first came across the Shing Mun Redoubt when walking the Maclehose Trail. The Battle of Hong Kong is a little known battle to those in the West though I had done some reading about the topic. Most narratives of the War in the Pacific though begin with Pearl Harbour, the Philippines, Guadalcanal, Midway, island hopping towards Japan, Iwo Jima and the atomic bombs that ended the war.
Less focus is on the fall of Hong Kong, Malaya and Singapore, the War in China, and the Dutch East Indies, among other non-US campaigns. My particular interest in Hong Kong grew, particularly when learning about the defensive measures taken by the British and the rapid collapse of the Shing Mun Redoubt.
The Maclehose Trail if you are taking an East-West route will bring you to the Artillery Observation Post which lies directly on the track. This is easy to enter so I took a timeout on the hike in order to take a look inside the AOP. As I entered I had little idea of what I would find. I was thrilled and surprised to find the extent of the fortifications still in existence. From the AOP there are rooms and for me at that time, a mysterious and long, dark flight of stairs leading down to who knew where. Walking in the dark with just the light at the bottom of the tunnel to guide me, I took nervous steps down not knowing what might be in the tunnel with me. Might there be a monkey in my path in the narrow enclosed tunnel and ready to turn vicious? Bats? Snakes? Thankfully there was nothing of the sort.
I explored, came across the trench outside the kitchen that I recognised from Wikipedia, and realised that I was walking ground which years ago men fought over in terror, and that men had died in the areas that I had just walked over. I resolved to return and to explore in more detail and at a more leisurely pace. Today was the return.
Walking the tunnels can be a little scary at times in case that rogue monkey in your imagination turns out to be there. A torch is required for some sections of the tunnels. They can also be quite disorientating and a map is useful.
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